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ancho chili powder

Ground dried poblano chilies, dark reddish brown, mildly hot and fruity with a raisin-like note.

Ancho is the dried form of the poblano chili, and the powder is made from that single variety alone, without cumin, oregano or salt, unlike the blends often sold simply as chili powder. It tastes sweetish, faintly smoky and of dried fruit, and its heat is low, so it can be used by the spoonful where colour and depth matter more than fire. In sauces, stews and marinades it thickens slightly and turns them dark. It is sold in well-stocked spice shops, Latin American grocers and online; in North America in particular it is often found in the ordinary supermarket spice aisle. It is worth checking the ingredient list to make sure you are buying pure ancho rather than a blend.

Substitute:

The best option is to grind whole dried ancho chilies yourself after briefly toasting them in a dry pan and removing the seeds, which gives an even fuller flavour. Powder made from pasilla or guajillo chilies comes close, pasilla a little more bitter, guajillo brighter and tangier. Sweet paprika with a little smoked paprika and a pinch of cayenne matches the colour and mild heat but lacks the fruity, raisin-like depth. An American-style chili powder blend is not a good substitute, because its cumin and oregano shift the flavour.

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